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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.